Saint Laurent Women’s Fall 2025: Rich Color and Bold Shapes to the Fore

PINKO eyelet-detail Cotton Shirtdress White

About an hour before his Saint Laurent shows, Anthony Vaccarello briefs small groups of journalists in a cave-like, backstage salon, its black walls, black furniture and dark flowers dimly lit. Lo and behold on Tuesday night, his lodge was bathed in a 60-watt glow and dressed in a warm caramel shade similar to the towering panels of backlit onyx ringing his gobsmacking oval show space. “Darkness, no. Positive,” the designer proclaimed, commencing an explanation of his most colorful Saint Laurent collection yet — and also one of his most stripped back, with not a single bangle in sight. With VICs a growing contingent at fashion week, it’s interesting to see how frequently designer clothes worn by devotees feels like cosplay — or logomania. Not so at Saint Laurent, where women dressed in Vaccarello’s mannish suits, ties and trenches from spring 2025 mostly radiated an intense, confident chic, laced with a frisson of danger. The fall collection packed a wallop with its rich palette; sophisticated color combinations immediately recognizable as YSL, like ochre-khaki or orange-purple; commanding shoulders, and a low-slung waistline which tied a neat bow on the ’80s trend that’s been percolating through Paris. The designer took cues from the ’90s haute couture collections of Yves Saint Laurent, reprising rhinestone-studded sunglasses, watery florals he slicked with silicone for a more modern allure, and his dramatic finale gowns — lacy slipdresses that erupt into full teacup skirts below the hips without crinolines or hoops underneath, only tulle. Vaccarello also noted that he achieved the hefty, demonstrative shoulders of his high-neck blouses, wedge-shaped coats and sack dresses without padding, employing fusible interlining on meaty satins and sportier, technical fabrics he used for the first time. “A few seasons ago, I would have been in hysterics if the shoulder moved,” he confessed. “But in fact this season, I really wanted movement and to have the shoulder moving a bit, to have a freedom in the clothing.…Everything is a little more relaxed.” Except for the cruel shoes, slingbacks with curving heels that looked to be as painful as they were pointy. Celebrity Gallery 19 Photos View Gallery Vaccarello blunted the grandeur of those finale gowns by stone-washing the fabrics, tossing one of his meaty leather blousons on top, and styling the models with minimal makeup and wash-and-go hair. You couldn’t tell if these ladies were heading to the Grammys, or running out for cigarettes for the after parties.

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